Portland continued: Pok Pok & Ken’s

How can I explain it? Why did my meals yesterday bring forth such rage? I kid, of course, but only slightly. I grabbed a bowl of curry soup (light fresh coconut milk broth, thin and tangled egg noodles, legs of succulent meltingly tender chicken, crispy “yellow noodles,” pickled mustard greens, shallots, cilantro, lime, mystery curry base) at Pok Pok that was so delicious I am convinced it was made with the essence of identical twin human babies or fairy wings or some other such delicacy because the ingredients to which mere mortals have access cannot possibly create such mind-blowing flavors. I finished a bowl and thought, “I am completely full and yet perhaps I should order another and spend my afternoon sitting here gorging on soup instead of working. Perhaps, in fact, I should move in and devote myself full-time to soup-eating.” Sure, my dashing husband and Ernest would be disappointed to have me never return, but if they tasted the soup they would understand. They would, I have no doubt, join me in my new soup-oriented lifestyle.

Of course I didn’t spend the day eating more soup. I’m a sensible gal, I got back to work. There is, after all, a recession depression on that is putting the fear of Voldemort in us all (that’s the guy whose name you’re not supposed to say, right? I’m not as up on my Harry Potter as I’m sure I’ll be in a few years when Ernest joins the cult).

And then came dinner. We headed to Ken’s Pizzeria. And I got mad all over again. What kind of crack is he putting in that crust and where can I buy it? Honestly, I don’t know why they bother putting things on that pizza. The crust is so good people would flock there just to eat slices of crust. But they do bother, and the tomato sauce is balanced and sparingly used and we had some chiles thrown on ours and with the cheese the whole thing turned into an addictive smoldering unctuous chewy yeasty delight. Oh, and the guanciale-wrapped grilled radichhio wasn’t too shabby either. I’ll be making that soon but if you want to get a jump-start on me take very thinly cut bacon or pancetta or other salty pig part and wrap in around a wedge of radicchio or one of those radicchio-colored belgian endives you see around at fancy stores these days, secure it with a skewer if needed, and grill it or broiling it would work for those of you sequestered indoors until May. For fancy times reduce some balsamic vinegar until syrupy and pour that over each little grilled bit.