Damn, food in New Orleans is good

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Not news to you? It’s not news to me either, but I’d never experienced it first-hand. This shit is good. Dinner last night at Lüke, where “lump crab meat” appeared to be a condiment (for $10 they add it to everything from shrimp to jägerschnitzel). Highlights included a much-needed sazerac (I’m not a “good” flier, no matter how much I do it), a butter lettuce salad tossed with a buttermilk dressing so think and unctuous I half-believe my dinner companion’s assertion that there is such a thing as “full-fat buttermilk” in the South (isn’t buttermilk the milk left over after the butter has been made, which should mean all the fat is gone? anyone? explain?) served over sliced beets and grated carrots, and a red fish amandine that was so crispy and browned and meltingly tender that I fell in love with fish all over again when I wasn’t busy protecting the butter-braised baby turnips and carrots from my thieving companion.
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Can you see all the butter? Soaking into the cells of each food item? Coating every morsel to make it more delicious? See the white flakes on top? That’s my crab topping. When in Rome….

While I’m here does anyone have any NOLA recommendations for me? I’m told Parkway Tavern has the best po’ boys in town. I plan to test that claim.